Snow had been falling all day. Piling up to over a foot and the ski lifts were beckoning to be ridden. The last weekend of lift served terrain was promising to be a good one, but with the tail end of the storm on the horizon there were other adventures looming. At the lower elevations it was warm enough to rain and with many people migrating to the desert to escape a long high country winter, they found themselves rained out of camps, climbs and trail rides. While April signifies the end of the high season in ski country it is also the beginning of high season in the desert. As with the low elevation snows melting into the rivers and flowing into canyon country, local mountain dwellers descend in elevation to thaw out and relax after a long hard season high in the Colorado Rockies. Travelers flock from all over the world for the greening of the Colorado Plateau. Rich red desert stone and sands fuse with yellow and purple desert blooms, the contrast of colors is the same as the weather. Cool clear nights, with stars piercing the sky, mountains, arches, and towers silhouette against the blue night sky while days are getting longer, brighter, and warmer. This is what has drawn us from the promise of deep powder to the compelling desert sandstone.
Our first day in Moab was inside of Arches National Park. As it turned out entrance into the park was free so I met up with Zak and Erik after they had completed The Owl. I quickly ran to find them scouting a route near Balanced Rock. After a brief discussion I hustled back to Susie Blue, my subaru, and grabbed my climbing kit. Not long after I found them at the base of the Northeast Chimney of Off-Balanced Rock (5.7).
Our first day in Moab was inside of Arches National Park. As it turned out entrance into the park was free so I met up with Zak and Erik after they had completed The Owl. I quickly ran to find them scouting a route near Balanced Rock. After a brief discussion I hustled back to Susie Blue, my subaru, and grabbed my climbing kit. Not long after I found them at the base of the Northeast Chimney of Off-Balanced Rock (5.7).
 Jere scrumping up the pitch 2 off width | This route starts off with a sandy crack leading up and right over broken blocks, through some jams to a ledge and a bolted belay. Without expectation I was offered the lead of pitch two. At first with out any route beta, I started out body jamming the off-width straight above the belay stance. I led up with a poorly placed .1 X4 in a worn out piton scar. As I inched up Zak mentioned that off-width was "R" rated, or runout, while heading horizontally into the cavernous chimney would lead to a protectable chimney and crack climb. Even though I was prepared for some scrumping I returned to the ledge and headed left side into the chimney. Tossing the gear sling from side to side I wiggled into the widening chimney. After about 20' of burrowing in the darkness I located the crack on the left side chimney wall. Facing the left wall I alternated stems up, along the way I found stable rests with leg stems and hand and finger jams to place ample gear from #3 yellow master cam up to #3 C4 with a couple medium stoppers thrown in there. As the chimney widens you may find yourself jamming bomber hand to fingers up to the anchors on the left. |
Compelling, striking, historical, renowned are just a few words to describe this spectacular and special place. On one side of the valley the famous mountain bike trail Porcupine Rim Trail descends 2,800' over 11 miles for whats described as "thrilling and bone jarring." While on the other side of the valley walls of sienna sandstone have been eroded leaving staggered monolithic towers of steep indian red windgate sandstone, perched upon precipices, poking the contrasting blue sky, 1,400' above the lush green spring grasses. The sentinel of this area is Castleton Tower or Castle Rock. As with many other climbers I have found myself following the footsteps of the one of the first ascensionists of this tower, Layton Kor. Of tower climbing Kor famously said “We climbed it because it won’t always be there.”
Erik felt good about hauling up a #5 C4 to protect this crux. Even though a #6 C4 would protect the off width down low the climbing is secure with right side in off width technique and the occasional #5 bump. Many face holds are with in reach as you scrump and don't forget the calcite edges for your feet on your back side wall. Of course while the star head bolt isn't reliable to whip on, go ahead and clip it for nostalgia sake. After Erik cleared the off width the exposure increased, underneath the route disappeared as he jammed away at cracks and flakes, calcite greased edges, using chimney style climbing as you see fit, and up to a lofty belay ledge with a bong and piton. Zak led out on pitch 3 following the previous jamming, stemming, and edging style of pitch 2. He exited right to an optional belay ledge. This would make for a very short pitch so Zak linked pitch 3 to pitch 4 up over a chockstone, through the alley to join the top of the Kor-Ingalls, he finished on airy positive calcite edges, and finger to hand crack jams to the mega anchor just below the summit. Erik and I followed to the top then Erik provided additional security offering Zak a hip belay on the top out. Since this was Zak and Erik's first summit on Castleton we soaked up the warm spring desert sun, refreshed with cool water, snacks, and ginger chocolate. Of course while on the summit other climbing parties started to gather. We met climbers from Denver, Durango and France. After trading our on route experiences we prepared for the relentlessly steep north
 Erik providing a hip belay to Zak | face rappel. This descent is the most direct line to the base of the tower. However this is not recommended for beginners or guided parties. While there are belay ledges and bolted anchors a client or novice would more easily be managed on the Kor-Ingalls rappel. In any case we prepared our double rope rappel, rigging with extended rappel slings and third hand back ups. Moreover with other climbers ascending the classic North Face Route, a slight breeze, and an opportunity for practice Erik saddle bagged the ropes. A safety check followed by a belly slide over the edge one by one we made the first of two double rope rappels down the north face of Castleton. Once at the second rappel ledge, or the top of the second pitch of the North Face, we pulled ropes, restacked saddle bags and descended a full 200', then scrambled down 4th class moves to the gear up slab. Running high on stoke we meandered back down the 1000' cone and back into a nearly empty camp for a cold beer cheers to a successful first day on the legendary North Chimney of Castleton. |
As storm clouds threatened Erik and Zak followed on a double rope belay from a guide ATC and we quickly transitioned into a rappel, back to the belay ledge and a short 2nd rap to the ground. This is a great reintroduction to desert chimney climbing. It offered great pro with the option to implement different techniques through the second pitch. Overall a good climb in one of America's greatest national parks.
After this we headed over for a quick hustle up to Delicate Arch. This Utah icon can be seen on license plates across the state. We boogied up the slab, past dozens of tourists, across swirling bands of sandstone, along chipped rock walkways, to the Delicate Arch viewpoint. People gathered around the sweeping amphitheater, vying for the best sunset photography spot. Finally we had enough and meandered back along the path to the trail head and cars. Back into Moab for a couple last minute supplies, and then up stream, along the Colorado River carved canyon, towards the mecca of desert tower climbing, Castle Valley.
After this we headed over for a quick hustle up to Delicate Arch. This Utah icon can be seen on license plates across the state. We boogied up the slab, past dozens of tourists, across swirling bands of sandstone, along chipped rock walkways, to the Delicate Arch viewpoint. People gathered around the sweeping amphitheater, vying for the best sunset photography spot. Finally we had enough and meandered back along the path to the trail head and cars. Back into Moab for a couple last minute supplies, and then up stream, along the Colorado River carved canyon, towards the mecca of desert tower climbing, Castle Valley.
Castle Valley
| We woke before sunrise and prepared for our 1,000 foot ascent to the base of the North Chimney (5.8). Even though many climbers had been rained out the previous couple days and there were only a couple parking spots left in the Castleton campground when we arrived, they didn't seem eager to be the first ones on route. Darkness gave way to rosy and golden hues of morning sun as we headed up the trail. The valley filled with towering shadows across to Porcupine Rim as we ascended up red sand trails, over broken talus blocks, and up to the base of the tower. It took a quick hour to reach the saddle between Castleton and another tower feature called the Rectory. After racking up we scrambled over broken ledges to the start of the sustained and steep first pitch. The route fires off with a long pitch, under a roof, up a right facing corner on hand jams and stems. Once through the dihedral flare and subsequent cracks there is another adequate rest before shooting up on hand jams and face holds into the slight bulge crux. Solid hands lead through the well protected crux to the cozy belay ledge. The fantastic first pitch is followed by a solid second pitch that involved the notorious off width. The climbing style contrasts but difficulty is not any harder. With many different styles of climbing this off width is not more difficult than the 5.8 rating. |  Rise and Shine its Send Train Time |
 Erik rigging for rappel |  Rappelling the North Face of Castleton |
 Erik starting out pitch 2 of Kor-Ingalls |  Looking down as Zak follows up the pitch 2 crux |
High caloric intakes, flushed with liters of water quickly faded into the night. Besides Erik, Zak and myself the campground was empty, so we decided on a slightly later start the next morning. Eagerly we woke to one other party starting up the approach trail. These three were headed up the same route as we were, but their descent would be quite different. After breakfast we were on our way back up the 1000' cone, through talus blocks, over calcite covered slabs, into the saddle between the Rectory and Castleton, reaching the gear up slab in an easy hour. Again we racked our harnesses, scrambled up class 4 blocks, then scurried an undercut and hanging section of the tower, stacked our ropes at the bottom of Kor-Ingalls (5.9), then Zak led up the 5.6 first pitch. The route starts with a short right facing hand crack then quickly changes into a chimney section. Turning sideways Zak boogied through an intersection of stacked blocks, turned and faced the slightly off width crack and jammed but mostly chimneyed up through a tunnel of rocks, across a ledge, and up another chimney and out a rock tunnel section to the first belay ledge. Zak continued past some bolted anchors on a big ledge and created a gear anchor on another adequate ledge directly below pitch 2.
The next pitch goes at 5.8 and this would be Erik's lead. He started out jamming on the left wall in the right crack to a stance before stepping over into a steep and wide flake. On this section gear beta recommended double #4 C4's and this is what we did. Consistent climbing allows left fist and foot jams along with right hand edges and side pulls while the right foot smears on sloped sandstone. The two #4's adequately protected this section with the option of a #5 C4 at the top before pulling left out of the flake and onto a ledge. Alternatively there are opportunities for smaller pro either to the right or left as you exit the flake. Next Erik climbed off the ledge through another chimney and onto the next belay ledge. At the same time while we managed the rope and belayed we saw three white parachutes float down to the approach trail. This was the other climbing party. After climbing Kor-Ingalls the three men base jumped off the tower. A moment later further up the ridge we saw two more parachutes slowly drift to the valley floor. After this I followed next as Zak finished cleaning the pitch. I thoroughly enjoyed this pitch and found plenty of calcite blobs inside the flake to fist jam on.
The next pitch goes at 5.8 and this would be Erik's lead. He started out jamming on the left wall in the right crack to a stance before stepping over into a steep and wide flake. On this section gear beta recommended double #4 C4's and this is what we did. Consistent climbing allows left fist and foot jams along with right hand edges and side pulls while the right foot smears on sloped sandstone. The two #4's adequately protected this section with the option of a #5 C4 at the top before pulling left out of the flake and onto a ledge. Alternatively there are opportunities for smaller pro either to the right or left as you exit the flake. Next Erik climbed off the ledge through another chimney and onto the next belay ledge. At the same time while we managed the rope and belayed we saw three white parachutes float down to the approach trail. This was the other climbing party. After climbing Kor-Ingalls the three men base jumped off the tower. A moment later further up the ridge we saw two more parachutes slowly drift to the valley floor. After this I followed next as Zak finished cleaning the pitch. I thoroughly enjoyed this pitch and found plenty of calcite blobs inside the flake to fist jam on.
The next 5.9 crux pitch would be mine. As we reracked the gear on a moveable gear sling, I arranged pro as I would use it, and mostly on my right side, I pondered the ensuing send and scrump fest. Coming off the belay ledge I scrumped left side in placing the big #5, onto a ledge, then a short reach to an old bolt that I quickly and easily backed up directly above it. A little more left side in scrumping then pulling out right onto a ledge. Then I scampered up to the large chimney that constricts at the bolted crux of the route. At first I continued with left side in off width technique but down climbed to the rest stance near the pitches third bolt. Again I tried the left side in scrumping until it constricted to tight for this approach and again I down climbed to the rest stance. Although I recognized the calcite face holds on the left wall it wasn't until my third attempt that I utilized these features. At this point I decided to layback the right side edge while edging my feet on the calcite, then hooking my leg into the chimney I pulled out of the layback onto juggy calcite globs. I was able to work my way back into the chimney and place pro. Alternatively I could have continued stemming a little higher before entering the chimney at a wider section. In any case there is a crack that works up the left chimney wall that provides adequate protection as I gained the next belay ledge at a bolted belay.
Jere starting to layback the Kor-Ingall crux
The fourth and final summit pitch was once again led by Zak. He started moving out left of the belay onto a ledge, then right up a short slab, chimnied around a chockstone, into the alleyway that meets with the North Chimney, and left across stunning exposure, on calcite edges and hand and finger jams, to the massive bolted anchor just below the summit. This time we had the whole tower to ourselves. No one else on the other 3 faces of this icon. Maybe all the other climbers were at Wall street, maybe in Arches, maybe they were jamming splitters in the Creek, or waiting in line on Sister Superior none of that matters, Castleton was all ours for the day. Two successful routes in two days up one of the most iconic desert towers in the world. Once again we rappelled the north face in two double rope rappels, then scrambled down 4th class blocks to the gear down slab. The now hot desert sun blazed on our satisfied smiles as we strolled down the basal cone, over talus, through step down constrictions, and along slick rock creek bed slabs, back to camp where there was an empty parking lot and cooler full of cold refreshments.
No doubt the Kor-Ingalls is much more sustained than the North Chimney with 4 full value and unique pitches. While climbing in a team of three has its challenges, it is an awesome way to climb. As the leader climbs the pitch focused on body movement, solid gear placements, and rope alignment, the other two climbers keep each other company as they belay and manage feeding out rope. Great days sending with these two crushers!
No doubt the Kor-Ingalls is much more sustained than the North Chimney with 4 full value and unique pitches. While climbing in a team of three has its challenges, it is an awesome way to climb. As the leader climbs the pitch focused on body movement, solid gear placements, and rope alignment, the other two climbers keep each other company as they belay and manage feeding out rope. Great days sending with these two crushers!
 Gomez getting the crux on his way to an onsight | After a half day and two full days of sending we decided to go crag on the route concentrated area of Wall Street just outside Moab. We left Castle Valley headed downstream into Moab for water and breakfast at The Love Muffin, one of my favorites in town. In short order we left town, drove down Potash road, and started out on a right facing corner called Siebernetics (5.8+). We all lead this one, climbing past two bolts, one on the lower slab and one on a ledge. Climb the corner with rounded finger and hand jams, foot work allows you to push into the right facing corner, while I find myself stemming with my right hand as I work my feet up. The crux comes in the middle of the pitch as the crack thins then widens, before traversing right to a bolted anchor. Our next stop was three routes left namely El Cracko Diablo (5.10a). This great route climbs a flared slot a little right side in, on solid finger locks combined with toe in, heel toe bridging, and an occasional face hold on the left. Although I see the face holds as a distraction to the solid jamming. These stable moves end at the roof, then a hang on it all day thumb down left hand jam with a right hand side pull, as feet are worked up the left side of the v-slot. Solid left hand jams and right hand side pulls lead up the hanging block. Good rests prepare for alternating side to side hand jams that thin while feet remain solid. Then on flared jams, and foot work in the cracks, pull left into the corner adjacent to the anchors or reach out right to clip the bolted anchors. Erik climbed it second and also on sited while Zak climbed on top rope. This must be my style of climbing because this on sight felt soft at 5.10a. Next we headed down stream to 30 seconds over Potash (5.8). Not surprisingly this |
route was occupied so we decided to climb Lucy in the Sky with Potash (5.10a). This left facing corner combines good hand and finger jams with feet on the face. Then the corner crack thins and spaces out forcing climbers to utilize face holds. I found climbing the crack as high as possible, matching the right hand and foot in the crack, with the left hand on face holds, then easily reach to a solid right hand jam, while smearing feet up to ledges and through the crux. Pull or mantle onto a ledge then finish on loose broken blocks up to the anchors. No one in our group on sighted this route. I have climbed this route before so I settled for a red point while Gomez peeled at the crux, and Zak made it look easy on top rope. Finishing our four days of climbing at the crag with harder routes was a great culmination.
Moab never disappoints, I have been coming to Moab for over a decade and love every minute of it. Unlimited, varied, diverse and unique climbing will keep someone occupied for a lifetime. While all the other adventures fill in off days. Mountain biking, hiking, sight seeing, and even ski mountaineering among this spectacular landscape keeps me coming back month after month and year after year.
Moab never disappoints, I have been coming to Moab for over a decade and love every minute of it. Unlimited, varied, diverse and unique climbing will keep someone occupied for a lifetime. While all the other adventures fill in off days. Mountain biking, hiking, sight seeing, and even ski mountaineering among this spectacular landscape keeps me coming back month after month and year after year.
Hey mom look who is on the summit of Castleton, it's team send train!
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