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Where not to go on a Weekend in the Baker Backcountry

11/28/2018

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   ​When it rains it pours but when it snows it dumps. First the rain drives people away but for those willing to stay around get to see that when it snows it dumps. This is what draws folks in to shredding the Mount Baker Backcountry. Sometimes prime conditions show up on weekdays, providing deep snow, gray bird visibility, and mild crowds. Other times the best opportunity maybe on the weekend when there is time off work or friends are available to rip. When it’s prime, the low hanging fruit of the Table Mountain Zone is irresistible and the feeding frenzy of a weekend back country pow day ensues. In order to make the most of your time this is where not to go on a weekend in the Baker Backcountry.
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  ​The first place not to go on a weekend in the Baker Backcountry is the short vertical, easy to access Swift Creek Zone. The headwater of the North Fork of Swift Creek is a good place to learn skinning technique, practice companion rescue, or try out a new touring partner with low commitment. There are many mellow slopes but also steep avalanche paths with consequential terrain traps. So, if you’re looking for long runs, avoiding crowds of avalanche courses, or just want to sample what Baker has, then avoid this area on the weekend. 
​   Blueberry Chute, Blueberry Cornice, Blueberry is the mystic zone that forms the ridge running from Martha’s Ladder to Table Mountain. For several years I asked friends, family, visitors, and loc dawgs
 “what does Blueberry mean to you?” And if I could summarize the responses it goes something like, “that bowl, that chute, that cornice” while pointing in the direction of Artist Point. So, for the sake of this description I’ll refer to Blueberry Chute as the relatively moderate bowl on the skiers right end of the giant cornice along the ridge below Artist Point. Vague enough… Consequently, this is a go-to line for anyone from Heather Meadows or the ski area looking to get low investment turns. Subsequently, on a pow day there is a lot of traffic and you can expect to have people dropping in on top of you. This slope has been the scene of many avalanche burials over the years and during poor avalanche conditions this slope has run the entire 750 vertical feet to the lake. When the ski area is tracked, and you want some freshies don’t go to the chop and bumps you are likely to find on a weekend in Blueberry Chute. 
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   ​So, you did it anyway and dropped down Blueberry or better yet you rode down Dog Chute to the lake and found yourself looking up at Table Mountain. The power of big terrain soars overhead as you get tunnel vision staring at the beautiful Newts Chute, Newts Apron, and Little AK. A quick transition and now you’re skinning back up. Meanwhile rippers are dropping 40 mph big mountain turns, spraying snow into the air, as they careen towards you. For a moment the thoughts, “I hope this doesn’t slide on me” or “please don’t hit me” pass through your mind. Instead of skinning out and around near the 
ski area boundary you decided to zig zag a zipper skin line back up underneath these big lines. If pow days, steep terrain, and fun with friends is your bag then this is another place not to go on a week end in the Baker Backcountry.   ​
   A great tour is heading out to Herman Saddle or Iceberg Lakes. Often times there is a track dropping out of the parking lot towards lower Bagley Lake. This area is a hive of activity, but be diligent, you are traveling underneath overhead hazard. You start to see the flying bodies of the bros and brahs that chuck their carcasses into the air off big booters below Grandmas House. Sledding kids shoot out of the trees with beanies over their eyes as they slide into their run out on the lake. And finally, the big avalanche paths of Mount Herman that crash down the Boulder Field, into the gulley, and onto the lakes creating dangerous terrain traps are places not to go on a weekend in the Baker Backcountry. 
​   There are numerous reasons to venture into the Mount Baker Backcountry. From big lines, to booters, to snowshoeing and sled riding this winter time playground is fun for all. There are guide books, online forums, and local knowledge that can tell you where to go. But on your next weekend off, during the next powder frenzy, when the low hanging fruit looks ripe hopefully where not to go on a weekend in the Baker Backcountry will help make your next visit a little less rotten.
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Splitboard Courses and Trips 2018/2019: One the Most Comprehensive Splitboard Programs in the Nation

9/23/2018

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Mount Shuksan and Baker from high on the Shuksan Arm
   It’s no news to any of us that skiers and snowboarders use terrain differently. From berms and banks to bumps and ruts there is no doubt that we use the mountain differently. As a self-proclaimed stubborn and passionate snowboarder, I have always believed that it has to be done, developed, and refined in order to progress the sport of splitboarding. Through the "I wallow so you can follow" attitude we can now use terrain in the most efficient manner meaning less traversing, more fall line, and quicker turn arounds to our next run. Working with Pro Guiding Service based in North Bend Washington and The American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) we now offer one of the most complete splitboard curriculum’s in the country.
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Companion Rescue
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Booting to the top in the Crystal Mountain Backcountry
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Day 1 pow on the 3 Day Splitboard Course
​ We will start the winter season laying the foundation of progression by offering 3-day Splitboard Touring and 3-day Splitboard specific AIARE 1 Avalanche Hazard Management Courses.
After years of watching new splitboarders struggle with new gear during our avalanche courses, I see that offering a touring course prior to an avalanche course will encourage content and skill retention. In other words, participants will be focused on learning movement during the touring course and focused on being a contributing team member while making decisions in avalanche terrain during the avalanche course.
Starting with the 3-day Splitboarding Course, participants will learn stance setups for backcountry shredding, quick transitions, and movement techniques such as skinning and track setting, descent considerations, and downhill split strategies. Furthermore, companion rescue and snowpack assessment will be introduced. This foundation will prepare splitboarders to go out and gain experience in easy terrain before participating in our AIARE 1 Avalanche Hazard Management Course.
There are nuances to companion rescue and decision making in avalanche terrain that only a snowboarder understands. During the AIARE 1 Splitboard Avalanche Course we will take the time to focus on the nuances of companion rescue in solid or split mode, terrain selection, and trip planning and execution, enabling you to become a proficient backcountry traveler. Learning outcomes outlined by AIARE are to plan for travel in avalanche terrain, identify avalanche terrain, make terrain choices in a group setting, and demonstrate effective companion rescue.
I will be able to offer a professional low ratio of 6:1 for avalanche course participants. This way each student gets more individual attention with a guide who only splitboards.
Back to back weekends can be challenging with work, family, and other obligations so these 2 courses will alternate every other weekend. Our schedule offers flexible
dates and venues to five shredders a weekend off in between ripping Washington’s best snowboarding venues. Namely Crystal Mountain, the steep, deep and easily accessed
Alpental Valley, and the legendary fall line Baker Backcountry. This will allow participants the opportunity to choose a venue they love or mix and match to experience more of the Cascades.
   So, if you want to do a touring course one weekend then do an avalanche course 2 weeks later at Crystal Mountain, we have it. If you want to tour at Baker, then do an avalanche course in the Alpental Valley we can do it. 
   ​After a spending the winter season implementing the skills learned during the touring and avalanche courses our progression leads us into long sunny days, big 7,000’ descents, and stabilizing snow of spring time corn on the big mountains. During the Splitboard Mountaineering Courses participants will learn the fundamentals of camping on the snow, traveling on a glacier, crack fall rescue, and navigation. Even more advanced skills such as moderate to steep snow climbing, rappelling, white out navigation, and rescue sled construction will be introduced. This 4-day course takes place on the glaciated volcanic peak of Mount Baker with a culmination of a summit climb and descent. This venue offers a variety of route options and descents. Our mountaineering course has the condition dependent option of traveling to Mount Shuksan.  
   To compliment all the courses and instruction, I offer single day trips with the goal of traveling through terrain and getting in long, steep, and deep runs. These days can take place when conditions are good and short notice bookings are encouraged. This means if the forecast looks good and a pow day is nearly guaranteed you can book as late as the night before, 2 nights prior works great too! Group rates apply and private days are available especially if you have a special request such as avalanche mentorship or riding the White Salmon Glacier on Mount Shuksan's massive western escarpment.
   Even more, with Pro Guiding Service we are offering lift accessed backcountry shredding at Baker, Whistler, or Crystal Mountain. Additionally, we offer splitboard trips to the big mountain mecca of Valdez Alaska, sailboat accessed fjord shredding in Andalsnes Norway, and high elevation summit shreds on Pico de Orizaba in Mexico. Check out Guided Exposure's Calendar for dates!
   After 23 years of experience and years of program development we are proud to introduce one of the most comprehensive splitboard progressions in the nation. From first timers to seasoned splitters we have left nothing out. If you are looking to get out on single day guided trips during big pow days, shred gigantic lines on the big mountains, or quit your job and become an international shred bum we have something for everyone.
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The mighty Shuksan Arm and Mount Baker
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Gear Review: Exped Black Ice 55 Liter Backpack

9/10/2018

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PictureWalking into the Cordillera Blanca with the Donkeys and Black Ice 55L. Photo: Paul Barish
   
​   The snow on the glaciers was still thick and the days were still growing longer. My spring schedule had filled with multi-day ski trips and summit climbs on Mount Baker. This time of the year was typical and we received our share of rain, snow, and over all wet conditions. As we transitioned from spring to summer my instructional courses and shred trips on Baker moved to summit climbs in the southern complex of North Cascades National Park. By then the wet spring weather had become a distant memory as we sweltered in the hot, dry, and smoky summer haze. Along the way the Exped Black Ice 55 Liter was my go to pack on shred and send trips up to 6 days in length.


Material 

PictureThe Black Ice surviving the snow at the 16,500' moraine camp on Artesonraju
   When the Black Ice showed up in the spring at Pro Guiding Service I was stoked to see it’s waterproof design. After spending over a decade guiding big whitewater, I immediately recognized the benefits this pack would have in the commonly wet North Cascades. In a classic dry bag design this pack is made of an ultra durable but light weight TPU Laminated HD Ripstop with a large opening on the roll top closure. The functionality here is top notch. The roll top secures with either 2 small carabiners that clip to daisy chain style loops down the side of the pack, or with larger loads that fill the pack, you can get a couple rolls in, bring the ends together, and clip them with a separate male/female style plastic plug and pinch buckle. During the spring with our cooler wet weather I felt 100% comfortable leaving my pack rolled up laying outside the tent vestibule to keep space open for boots and stoves. Never once did any gear get wet inside.


Compartments

   In order to ensure waterproof performance the packs design has one large 55 liter tapered funnel shaped compartment, a small external waterproof zippered pocket, and a small internal pocket. In addition, a frameless design keeps the empty pack weight down, but with a removable ultra lightweight PE foam board it supports pack weight surprisingly well. No flaps, no drawcord openings, no brain. Using a classic brick and mortar packing style, I was able to stuff small soft items such as shirts and extra socks around medium sized hard items like a stove and fuel cans into the large main compartment. This would provide plenty of space for 6 days of gear on summer alpine climbing trips into Boston Basin and for as many days on splitboard mountaineering trips on Mount Shuksan.
   The external waterproof zippered pocket has enough space for several small items such as a couple snack bars, map and compass, and the always critical blue bag. Over stuffing the zippered pocket could create a possible weak point in the waterproof performance of this pack fortunately the inside of the pocket is made of the same TPU laminated HD Ripstop so the inside of the pack will remain dry and protected if this were to happen.
   Meanwhile the internal pocket offers a little organization for a few items such as more snack bars, a spare battery pack, and a bottle of sunscreen.
After the main compartment is packed with all my gear this pocket becomes difficult to access. Another option is using the internal pocket to hold a 1.5 liter hydration bag or dromedary but there is no hydration tube port to the outside of the pack.
The simple waterproof tunnel design is effective but has limited organization options. A simple solution I have come up with is a small stuff sack for my regularly used items such as lip balm, sunscreen, tooth brush, and more snacks, that sits on top of my gear in the main compartment.

Compression and Extension

    This pack is a stout 55 liters, large enough to carry enough gear for 5 or more days into Boston Basi in the North Cascades. But when it’s time to climb the West Ridge of Forbidden the Black Ice rolls down small. Even though there aren’t any integrated compression straps the pack rolls down tight enough to climb like a small summit pack while still maintaining space for a days worth of climbing gear.  

Straps

​   Straps, what straps! This super slim, low profile pack allows a variety of strapping options for those must carry on the outside pieces of equipment. Additionally, low profile shoulder and waist straps provide just enough padding and weight distribution to carry the large loads. While any extra tail length rolls conveniently into velcro closures on the end of the adjustment straps. 
   First, this pack comes with removable compression style straps that allow custom arrangement on the 4 daisy chain loops running down the back and sides of the pack. Along with an adjustable over the top strap with a metal aluminum hook closure for a variety of arrangements. If you’re carrying a splitboard in “A” frame position or diagonal there are solutions, if you need to attach a rope on the outside there are solutions, snow picket access just clip it, crampons on the outside no problem. If you’re going for a day hike, remove all the straps and have a stream line pack that won’t snag on the drooping doug firs.
   Next, the low-profile shoulder straps are padded and wide enough to distribute the fully loaded weight of a 55 Liter pack while maintaining low bulk and avoiding sponge like affect in wet conditions. At first, I was concerned with the padding packing out, but after a full summer of heavy loads this hasn’t happened. The floating sternum strap adjusts up and down easily and for my body shape and size I found the range to be a little limiting but still functions nicely. 
   In order to carry a big pack comfortably Exped used a removable seat belt style waist belt that connects with a coin and slot buckle. This modern buckle style is easy to use in the snow with gloves, so no snow clogging pinch to unplug buckle. The female coin slot piece is plastic while the male coin piece is aluminum. Throughout the summer I have seen noticeable wear on the plastic piece. It seems durable enough in materials and design to withstand being crushed if it gets stepped on. Thus more durable than a typical pinch and plug buckle but it has seen more wear than the aluminum component. Adjusting the buckle is easy as long as I adjust the metal coin, left side first, then after clipping the buckle tighten 
the plastic slot from the right side. I haven’t removed the belt to climb yet and in fact I prefer moving through vertical terrain with the belt buckled so my pack moves with me and doesn’t sway. But for those who prefer otherwise the belt can be removed easily and stored at camp or in the pack while scrambling, climbing, or sending.
   Lastly, the pack easily carries an ice axe or two ice tools with a traditional loop and flip design for the head and a fish hook shaped shock cord toggle tightener to snug the shaft in place. Another design consideration I really liked is the large grab loop handle behind your head. This handle not only makes moving the bag around easy but when transitioning from ice axe use in moderate and steep snow couloirs to 4th class rock this handle doubles as a behind the back and head quick storage for a He Man, ninja sword, stow and retrieve security loop.
​   From Cascade deluges of rain and Andean snow squalls this pack has kept my gear dry all summer. Alpine climbing up steep snow couloirs, across classic rock ridges, down long gully rappels, and across broken glaciers to getting shoved under the back seat of a mini bus by an anxious driver in Caraz, this thing has held up incredibly well. Over all this pack has surpassed my expectations being able to adapt to any style I decide to use it. And seeing how it has survived a spring and summer of heavy use during work and on personal expeditions I believe strongly this pack will last for many more years of abuse.
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So long from the Cordillera Blanca. Photo: Paul Barish
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Baker Splitfest 2018

3/23/2018

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Baker Splitfest 2018

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Taking a break during our guided splitboard tour
   
​   Warm air, sun reddened faces with goggle tans, firm melt freeze crust on southerly slopes and facet pow hiding out in the northerlies are a welcomed sign.
 The end of winter and the beginning of spring have arrived like cold water to a parched throat in the days that lead up to Baker Splitfest 2018. Every year the splitboard community rallies around the snowboarding mecca of Mount Baker. This is where splitboarders come to demo splitboard equipment, participate in touring and rescue clinics, shred turns , and of course raise some funds for our local avalanche forecasters at the Northwest Avalanche Center.
​   To get in on the sunny pow action, many folks arrived on Friday morning. Line by line the Bagley Lakes Cirque was sampled, slashed, and slayed by sponsored riders, board and binding builders, and loke dawg possees. The classically steep and intimidating north facing lines of Blueberry, 
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Artist Point, and Little AK 
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were poked, jammed, and pitted for the simple enjoyment of shred.
   The official start to Baker Splitfest was Friday evening. As the split tribe descended upon the fern and moss laden soggy nook of the North Cascades in Glacier Washington. Throughout the night, the host of the event, Chair 9 Pizza and Bar, turned out pizza pie after pint and rippers chatted with vendors about products while free demos were setup for the following days clinics and tours. At the same time splitters greeted each other, listened to the avalanche forecast and “state of the snowpack”, and registered for the weekends tours and clinics.
   The night silently faded, then the morning beckoned rippers up to Heather Meadows. Gradually, the parking lot filled with splitboarders from all over the country. They would try their hand at some of the best advanced and expert backcountry in the nation. This area has a long history of ground breaking snowboard progression and the immediate Bagley Lakes Cirque holds some beginner and even more intermediate terrain. But for those looking to challenge themselves
what really shines are the big lines that may define their snowboarding lives. Fortunately, professionally guided splitboard tours and skills clinics launched out of the parking lot and introduced the willing to this gem we call home. Kick turns and pow slashes were preceded by layers of sunscreen, cruiser skin tracks, and welcoming camaraderie  Excited splitters slid out on new demo gear towards Artist Point, Herman Saddle, Table Mountain and deeper into the Mount Baker Wilderness towards Ptarmigan Ridge. Lap after lap of pure powder pleasure, P cubed, depleted energy reserves, and splitters trickled back into the parking lot. As afternoon wore onto evening, Chair 9 kept the stoke high with frothy refreshments pouring down thirsty throats, as shredders shared stories of steep lines with snow filled grins.
   Saturday night is a Splitfest highlight. Demo gear exchanges take place with new setups, a splitboard transition competition rallied under the white tent, and of course the raffle. This is an opportunity to purchase tickets for a chance to win prizes from sunglasses to splitboards. All with the purpose of supporting our local avalanche forecasting center, The Northwest Avalanche Center. 
Evelyn, Brandon, and Howah skinning in the milk jug
Howah rippin' toe side
The crew with "happy faces" while Baker Boot Packing
   Day three had cast a shadow weariness after a night celebrating this sub-genre of snowboarding. The mountains put on a new kit with light snow falling and a milky white fog drooped, sagged, and draped across the Bagley Cirque limiting visibility on the steep treeless slopes. Even so, crews of splitters flittered uphill to Heather Meadows for another day of adventure exploring the legendary Baker backcountry. Where, when, and how entered the thoughts of the uninitiated. For those of us accustomed to northwest ping pong ball shred conditions, moving through flat light and fog comes with experience and the territory. For those unfamiliar, finding well contrasted slopes can be challenging. Thankfully, we were able to bring my guided split crew into a zone that had less fog,   rocky contrast, and quality turns in cold snow. The split crew was rewarded with a classic, rarely traveled, circumnav and a phenomenal climax to everything Splitfest has to offer.
  Reluctantly, crews of splitboarders headed downhill, leaving behind the high walls of North Cascade snow, back down to the green valley below.  Again Splitfest descended to Chair 9, drank and sipped pitchers of brew, chowed hot pizza pie and cheesy burgers all while sharing the stoke that Baker Splitfest provides. Contacts, connections, reacquaintance, and more importantly friendships and camaraderie were forged during this regional splitboard pilgrimage to the legendary Baker backcountry. Thanks to all the event sponsors, gear and swag donors, Chair 9 Pizza and Bar, and Bob Rodgers for organizing Baker Splitfest 2018.  See you all in 2019 while spreading the love of split! 
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​Author:  Jere Burrell

Splitboard guide and instructor, Jere Burrell, left deep slab instabilities in continental climates for deep snow immersion of the North Cascades. As a stubborn and passionate snowboarder he won't let anyone tell him what he can't do on a splittie. As a patient and well traveled splitboard guide he believes in spreading the split love!  

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Solo of Mount Index

3/23/2017

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   After returning from a rock climbing trip in Squamish British Columbia, the opportunity for a big solo outing presented itself. All of my potential partners were occupied in one way or another so I started to search for possible objectives. 
   Eventually I found the perfect 3 day route that would allow me to set up a base camp on the first day, make an attempt on Mount Maude and Seven Fingered Jack on the second day, then on the third day hike out. It was a perfect plan and the chances of summiting both peaks were good. The night before my departure, I drove to the trailhead to spend the night where almost 20 miles from the trailhead, I was stopped by a closed gate. This was very unexpected and decided it wasn't worth the walk. 
PictureRoad to Index
   It was a huge disappointment and I was having trouble figuring out what to climb instead. After a lot of thought I decided on a rugged and seemingly rarely climbed peak that towers over the Stevens Pass Highway, Mount Index. Since I was close to the trail head I drove up Forest Road 62 to find a gate closing off that road as well. This closure would mean ridiculously high miles of road just to get to my objective. Instead I decided to try a different route. Miraculously the road to the next trail head was open. So I cooked some breakfast and read about route options. 
   One of the appealing things about Mount Index is there is almost no info on this route, no mile marker, or any indication of technical difficulty other than a line in the guidebook. Because of this a true wilderness adventure awaits anyone who dares to go out there. It looked reasonable for a single day attempt so I packed a bag and I was off.
   
​Rain pummeled through the trees, splashing into puddles, trickling into streams, as I meandered along a well trampled trail. The travel was quick, easy and beautiful. Passing many waterfalls, I met many day hikers in spite of the crazy amount of rain coming down. As I gained elevation I learned from others who were descending that Lake Serene was 4 miles up trail. Continuing uphill, the rain lessened and any chance of viewing my route was blocked by a thick fog that enveloped me. I left the trail and traversed through tangled brush to the only distinguishable land mark, a large talus slope.

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Foggy Trail
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Lake Serene
PictureWest Ridge
   Progress up the talus was quick but then slowed once I reached more vegetation. Eventually I scrambled to a point where the brush gave way to rock. Climbing in mountaineering boots, up steep mostly solid moss covered rock, water poured over me. Soaked to the bone I was careful to make sure my boots had purchase before moving to another hand hold. After doing this for far too long I reached a point where climbing any further would be a commitment to the top. Since I could not down climb what I had to go up it was not safe for me to continue so I decided to descend. 
   Reversing the route was tedious but manageable and just for a moment the storm cleared and a view emerged of what I was climbing. To continue on would have been over my head and with no question or regret I made my way back to the car to re-strategize. 
The outcome of my attempts left me frustrated but not defeated. I decided to attempt Index again from another route that I knew a little more about. So I drove over to the closure at Forest Road 62 and packed for the next day. The road closure on FR62 is 100 feet off Highway 2 at about 500 feet above sea level. The summit of Mount Index is at 6,005 feet making it quite prominent. The description for the dirt road, one that I would get to know so well, mentioned two forks in the road and said the route was obvious. It also said I would be on the road for about 11 miles to the fork where I break off to begin the route. On June 25 at 8 a.m. I began the long walk in sneakers with my mountaineering boots packed in my relatively light backpack. 
   The first part of the road went well until I got to a fork about 3 miles in. The map said to go left but it didn't feel like the right direction. Understanding the consequences, I went right, walked down hill which brought me to some turns in the road that were not on the map. Unsure of myself I continued along the road this ever present feeling is one I would get to know on this climb. Contrary to the route information I followed my gut. Miles and several undocumented forks later I was relieved to find a landmark that told me I was on track, the Weyerhaeuser Gate.

PictureWeyehaeuser Gate
   ​At a quick pace I passed the gate and hiked up the road until I finally arrived at the last fork before the old logging road. Not knowing when I would get to refill some water, I stopped, mixed some Aquamira and waited to purify my water when I was startled to hear voices behind me.
    I spun around and saw two people walking towards me, immediately apprehensive, one of them waived at me in a way that I could tell he was friendly. I waved back energetically, to show I was a good guy too. Backcountry interpersonal communication!
   Come to find out the two were John and Lisa. John was working with the forest service and logging companies and had keys to all the gates. While surveying for endangered species he hit a boulder in the road and drained his vehicle of all its transmission fluid. They spent the night in their vehicle and were walking out today. They were unsure of the best way to get out and although they had a map, it was not very detailed. They would have been able to figure it out, but just to be sure I wrote down some directions for them. After laughing together at the situation we parted ways en route to our own adventures.

PictureTrail Road
​   From there several large downed trees blocked the road at least it correlated with the maps and descriptions. At 3,000 feet there was a large portion of the road that was washed out by a river coming down the mountain side, thankfully it was easy to cross. 
  After the washout, the "road" changed a lot. Accordingly, I switched into mountaineering boots. After a quarter mile it became so densely vegetated that I could not see the ground or the sky at times. Long periods of thrutching through branches 
for the next three switchbacks of the road didn't even let me touch the ground.
   At times I wasn't even sure if I was on the road until I figured out a trick. I would climb to the top of the brush, survey my surroundings, and see different vegetation growing on either side of the road. With that I was able to follow the road with relative ease and peace of mind. 
   Due to all the rain and lack of wind or sun for the last few days the bushwhacking was exhausting. There was water on all of the plants and I was soaking wet while constantly groveling through the shrubs. Knowing I would have trouble drying my cloths later, I stayed in a t-shirt, hiking pants and rain pants. The rest of my cloths stayed mostly dry in my pack. Following the road and my compass to assure the correct route this battle continued for hours.

PictureDamp Camp
   The description said "go to the roads end" and then go northeast up timbered slopes. When I got to a huge waterfall I wasn't sure if the road had actually ended. The maps and guidebook didn't say anything about it so if this was a new washout it had happened since the guidebook was written. After 9 hours on the move I decided that it was indeed the end of the road so I set up camp. I made several attempts to dry my cloths, but to no avail. They were drenched and I shuddered at the thought of putting them on in the morning. As the day ended I warmed with a delicious meal of dehydrated chili mac and crawled into my rocky and uneven tent for the night, at least it was dry. 
   In the morning I slept in, my hope was that the improving weather would be warm enough for me to put on my wet clothing with less misery, but I was wrong. I drank a bunch of hot water to raise my body temperature and wriggled into the wet freezing clothing. Immediately I started doing jumping jacks to warm up.
   I didn't want to wander through the jungle looking for my stuff so I packed up the remainder of my gear. With everything shouldered into my pack I followed my compass northeast through the sopping wet vegetation. The jungle was just as dense as the road was, except now it was steeper and had a lot more sharp plants. I stayed northeast, skirted some cliffs to the east but continued until I got cliffed out. The idea was to find a broad bench at 4,700 feet that would grant access to the upper mountain. 

PictureToe of the Bench Buttress
Then the first miracle of the trip happened when I popped out of the thick brush about 50 feet to the left of this bench. It was the only feature like that around. Pleasantly surprised at the rocky and comfortable bench I decided to take a short rest.
   According to the maps and guide there were 3 options from here. Option one was to climb class 3 rock directly above the bench to gain the west ridge and follow it to the summit. Option two was a gully just south of the headwall (which in reality was downhill in the opposite direction) or option three which was another gully even farther south that was the longest but reportedly the easiest. The rock in front of me was definitely harder than 3rd class and neither of the gully options made sense. I decided to follow what looked like the best route and continue northeast up a gully. Once again the gully was very steep and densely vegetated. I used my ice axe to swing into the mud and grass and use my free hand to pull up on branches. I call this class 5 bush whacking!
   I scrambled up onto a saddle with a little snow on it and rested for a bit. Then continued east up the only obvious option. A forested ridge that was not too steep or overgrown. I followed this ridge uphill until cresting a saddle. Here I thought I would be within a stones throw of the summit instead I was greeted with an incredible view of a huge basin. A glacial melt stream flowed through the center with snowfields surrounding, and feeding it as the bright sun melted the snow. At the far side of the basin was the bulging crown that was the summit of Mt Index, it seemed very far away.

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Ridgeline to Summit
   At first I tried to traverse a ridge around the north side of the basin in hopes of not having to lose much elevation but I ended up getting cliffed out. I retraced my steps back up the ridge and scoped out a new route through the basin. I began descending, getting cliffed out numerous times and eventually found a mountain goat track to follow that led me up the path of least resistance to the creek at the bottom of the basin. I took a nice rest and refilled some water  then began working my way up a rocky drainage coming from one of the upper snowfields. At this point the route finding was relatively strait forward and I was making good time. It was easy to travel through the upper snowfield and into a gully where the bottom half was filled in with snow. The upper half was terribly loose talus but I didn't care, at least it wasn't bushwhacking! 
   I continued to move quickly through easy terrain until I reached a small saddle where I had some route options. Now I saw the snow traverse that I had read about and it looked as scary and dangerous as everyone said. So I opted, instead, for a steep mud gully with the occasional rock or branch for purchase rather than a muddy ice axe. Although it was a short crux, only about 50 feet tall, it had striking exposure, it had my full attention.
   From the top of the gully I was relieved to see gentle snow slopes trending uphill towards the summit. I hiked and enjoyed my last few steps to the top of this very special mountain. The summit was lofty but comfortable. The views were outstanding. I saw all of Washington's highest peaks, including Mt Rainier which dominated the skyline to the south. The air felt crisp and warm, it was a still day in this wild place. There was a kind of silence that you can only "hear" when you are alone. It seemed like the world revolved around this point.
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Index Snowbowl and Mount Rainier
PictureThe North Cascades!
​   With a full understanding of the grueling descent ahead, I only stayed about 10 minutes. I was concerned about getting lost in the brush on the way down. I reversed my way back to the bottom of the basin and up the other side, and although it was a pain, it was without any trouble.
   From there the biggest miracle of the trip happened, I found my EXACT path of ascent all the way down to where my camp site had been. I recognized this the entire way and was thrilled. It was still challenging to find the route and there were a few times that I got off track but I quickly retraced my steps and found my way.
   Once back at the logging road I could breathe again. The worst of the route finding was over and now all I had to do was the horrid bushwhacking down the road. It wasn't totally dry this time but definitely better than the last time. I crossed the washed out road at 3,000 feet and knew that it was time to just shut up and suffer. Ahead of me was a long boring road hike, at least I had two pairs of shoes. 
   Around 8:00 p.m. I was almost to the trail head when John came speeding around the corner in his red Ford, as he passed he yelled "flag Lisa down she'll pick you up" I laughed, and knowing I was close, ran the remainder of the road.
   One last miracle was the perfect finale of the trip. Upon arrival at the trail head, John rewarded me with an ice cold beer! I was so grateful for that beer and it stands out as one of the best I've ever had. Lisa came in a different vehicle shortly after. John explained that he had just enough fluid to put in the car to drive it out as it drained, hence the rush as he passed me. We passed time drinking some beers and talking about our adventures over the last few days. I was really happy to have met them and I look forward to hanging out with them in the future. After cooking some dinner I headed back to Leavenworth for a good nights sleep next to the soothing sounds of the Wenatchee River. I was too tired to clean up the mess I had made in the car while packing for the climb, instead I just crawled into bed and fell asleep thinking about the wild mountains of the Cascade Range.



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Author: Paul Barish 
Instagram: @paul_barish

​After leaving the sunny sandy beaches of south Florida Paul set his sights on the highest mountain town in the United States, Leadville Colorado. Here he completed an Outdoor Recreation Leadership Degree at Colorado Mountain College and at the same time developed a pasion for suffering to the summit. When he's not bagging winter 14er solos Paul can be found thawing out on dry rocks with good friends.
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Mount Baker North Ridge in a Day

1/6/2017

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The North Ridge archs in the overhead morning sun
   The North Ridge of Mount Baker is one of the most sought after climbs in the Cascade Mountain Range, as well as one of North Americas 50 classic climbs. Jere had been working a lot on Baker and always had a lot of interest in climbing the route. I had never climbed this stunning volcano before but I always wanted to. When our schedules lined up on June 29 we took full advantage of a beautiful weather forecast, drove to the trailhead, and prepared for a car to car attempt. 
   Four hours of sleep treated me pretty well although I really wanted more.  For breakfast I ate a cold can of chili, some pre rolled cheese/salami sticks, and a few bites from a slice of cherry pie, a strange assortment from my cooler. Having packed the night before I grabbed my pack and we were hiking at 3:01a.m. 
   As we broke tree line at 4:30 a.m. the horizon was already bright enough that we  turned off our headlamps and got our first views of the mountain in the beautifully clear sky. It stood proud and alone, nothing challenged its height. At 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is not a very high mountain but considering the fact that you begin the climb from about 3,600 feet, it makes for a long day. 
   We hiked past a field of climber tents and traversed snow slopes towards the Coleman
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Morning light on the North Ridge
Glacier. There are many significant crevasses on the Coleman so we periodically moved our two man rope team en echelon to mitigate the falling hazard. ​Eventually we crossed the crevassed section of the glacier, reached the toe of the North Ridge, and put the rope away to move more effectively up some steep snow slopes.
   There were a lot of buckets kicked into the slopes from other parties attempting this famous route. Ahead of us a party of three were making their way to the base of the North Ridge so we kept our distance and gave them space. I would have preferred no signs of humans but it did make the travel much easier. 

   From a break spot on the rocks, we scoped out the technical crux of the route. A 200 foot ice cliff blocks easy access to the upper ridge. The difficulty of the climb varies greatly due to conditions but it's generally called AI3. As I nervously prepared to lead the crux first pitch  of the route I remained focused. 
Picture
Jere on the Coleman Glacier Above the Sound
PicturePaul Soloing while Colfax Looms
   Finally I set off over the initial steep step climbing above a snow picket anchor. The ice was firm and in the shade but not too hard. I placed one of my eight screws, swung my tools over the arête, and made sure to get solid stances to save my energy. Without the benefit of a solid freeze the night before the ice on this side of the ridge had been in the sun all morning and was beginning to turn to slush. I felt insecure as I swung my tools feeling for a confidence inspiring stick into real ice. Now it was time to place another screw, so I chopped away at rotten snow and ice to get reliable protection into anything solid. Gradually the angle steepened and the chopping became exhausting but it had to be done. Even though I was scared I effectively and carefully moved,  I kept my head straight, I totally focused, I was in flow.
   Towards the top of pitch 1 the climbing was even slushier. I ran it out for 50 feet from my last screw instead of using the energy to place marginal protection. My confidence soared knowing I wouldn't fall and decided to just climb. We were climbing with a 40 meter rope and knew I was getting close to the end.  Just then I felt the rope tug and knew that it was Jere and I was out of rope. But I was so close to a solid ice ledge to set up a belay. Quickly I placed my last screw, saving two others for an anchor. At the same time Jere disassembled the picket anchor and climbed up a little while not being in a strained position. He did a damn good job and gave me just enough rope to work with. Outstretched as far as I could, reaching way out in front of me, I placed two screws and equalized them with a dyneema double runner. I was so close but didn't have enough rope to put Jere on belay. So I extended the master point with a basket just enough that I could put the rope through my ATC guide. Once Jere was on belay he climbed enough to give me the slack I needed to clove hitch myself into the anchor. It was good teamwork. Jere cruised the pitch, thoroughly enjoying it the whole way. I could not stop smiling.

Paul Leading the 1st Pitch
Jere Following the 1st Pitch
Paul Leading out for the 2nd Pitch
Jere Gaining the Steep Upper Face
   We flipped the rope and I set out on the next pitch expecting it to be much easier. Luckily I was correct! After an easy snow traverse I placed another screw in pristine, thick, blue glacial ice, the first such ice on the route. After that I pulled a bulge out to the right onto easy steep snow, climbed for about 10 meters, and kicked out a platform. Here I built a two deadman anchor with a snow picket and one of my ice tools. Jere followed the short pitch and then we were committed to the summit. Next we unroped and soloed for several hundred feet up moderate to steep snow, over snow bridged bergschrunds, and past a looming serac. The climbing was fun and the exposure was terrific!
   Once on the summit ice cap we had a wet, slushy, difficult but short walk, a small price to pay for having beautiful and sunny weather. We spent just long enough on the summit to refuel, snap some pictures, and transition to get ready to glissade.
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Paul on the Summit of Mount Baker
   We descended the summit snowfield towards the Roman Wall where we were able to glissade down the Deming Glacier, along the pumice ridge, to the 9,000' saddle, and the Coleman Glacier. Baking in the sun we roped up, crossed the glacier through heavily crevassed terrain, and back to the campsites to repack and refuel for the hike back to the cars. The trail that was so quite this morning was now teeming with loud hikers. Good conversation with each other quickly brought us to the trailhead. We were ecstatic to be able to climb such a magnificent route in good style. Overall it took around 14 and a half hours car to car, which is not bad at all. 
   At the end of the day, the North Ridge of Mount Baker stands true as one of the best alpine climbs around. It was a great experience for my first time on Mount Baker and I look forward to coming back to repeat this route and likely try some others as well.
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Author: Paul Barish 
Instagram: @paul_barish

This is Paul's first contribution to Guided Exposure and we look forward to more stories from his adventures. After leaving the sunny sandy beaches of south Florida Paul set his sights on the highest mountain town in the United States, Leadville Colorado. Here he completed an Outdoor Recreation Leadership Degree at Colorado Mountain College and at the same time developed a pasion for suffering to the summit. When he's not bagging winter 14er solos Paul can be found thawing out on dry rocks with good friends.

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Splitboard Courses in the Cascades with Deep La Nina Pow!

12/9/2016

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Skin Track in the North Cascades
      It is with great excitement that we are now offering splitboard courses in the Central Cascades! We have partnered with Pro Guiding Service conveniently located in North Bend Washington at the base of Snoqualmie Pass. The intro to splitboard courses will have two fantastic locations and offer either 1 day or 3 day instruction in a 4:1 group setting. We can also arrange private instruction outside of the scheduled dates. 
PictureGetting to the Goods in the Storm
   During the 1 day course you will be introduced to the skills necessary to move through the mountains on a splitboard. Eager first timers and never evers will go from timid to confident, while experienced splitters will go from confident to competent.
   The 3 day course is where movement skills get hard wired and well thought out backcountry tours are developed. After these 3 days you will be able to fill day after day, season after season with deep soft powder snow. 
   
Our 1 day and 3 day courses are offered at two different backcountry venues. Our first course of the season will be held at Alpental on Snoqualmie Pass. This area offers easy access from Seattle and Sea-Tac International Airport as well as the east side of the Cascades. In addition, we have a 1 day and 3 day course at Crystal Mountain. This classic mountain delivers with great access, large vertical, high elevations while soaking in the incredible views of Mount Rainer.
   Both the 1 day and 3 day courses are a 4:1 ratio meaning each participant will receive ample individual attention. In this way everyone will benefit from their time in the field. Even better get your entire crew together and build a breakthrough team dynamic that will be prepared to track out your favorite zones!

Click the buttons below to choose one of our weekend courses.
Or contact Guided Exposure directly to schedule a private day. 
 
                     1 day                                                 3 day
Alpental          January 7th                               February 24th-26th
 
Crystal           February 11th                             January 20th-22nd
Click for 1 Day
Click for 3 Day

    Contact Jere directly for private days or courses for you and the crew! 

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Digging Deep in Cold La Nina Pow!
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Stoked to be Sharing the Split Love!
Bring the whole crew!
The Stoke is High While Splitting!
The Best Powder Tool Ever Created!
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The Watson Traverse

5/8/2016

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Mount Baker from the Coleman Glacier
PictureDaniel Skinning up the Coleman Glacier
   Green ferns wave and tree leaves flutter overhead the spring cloverleaf and cherry tree flowers have bloomed. Along the green flow of the Nooksack River the sunlight reflects in calm pools, off babbling flumes, and over cascading waterfalls. Punching the gas, Daniel and I accelerate uphill past snowmelt fed curbside creeks and old growth deadfall dripping in moss. We pass the White Salmon base area and in March the walls of snow were 15 feet high but as we continue above 4,000' the walls are now 5 feet high and there is much less snow than I thought there would be. Last month I was in Colorado where they clearly are a month or two behind and when I left we were getting regular 14” dumps of snow. But here in the North Cascades passing Picture Lake, the Mountaineers Baker Lodge, and chair 1 to park at Heather Meadows it is warm, sunny and by maritime standards dry. At this point we are committed to our trip by dropping off our shuttle vehicle at the end of the Watson Traverse. 
   This 17 mile traverse was originally done on a day in 1939 by Dwight Watson, Erik Larson and Andy Hennig (http://alpenglow.org/skiing/baker-2004/index.html). When they pioneered this route they started low in the valley near Glacier Washington. Now we have the privilege of driving 8 miles up Glacier Creek Road to the trailhead at 3,600’.

PictureSkinning Under the Morning Sun
​   At the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead a few cars were in the parking area, but as afternoon wore on to evening the lot slowly filled with ambitious climbers. One of them would be our 3rd team member Jack and eventually later that night Carl, our fourth team member had arrived. By the time we shouldered our packs at 5 a.m. Saturday morning there were dozens of climbers and skiers booting up the Heliotrope Ridge Trail. Meter deep patches of firm snow slowly melt into puddles and muddy trails lead us  through the first switchbacks. The four of us continued boot packing up to the Hogs Back camp with splitboards and skis on our packs. By this time we had caught several groups that started earlier than us and we all gravy trained to 5,400’. Gradually the rosy hues of sunrise filtered onto the summit ice cap of Mount Baker. At the same time we put our splitters and mr. chomps to work and skinned onto the Coleman Glacier. Below the looming and ominous black buttes, Lincoln and Colfax, up to the 9,000’ Coleman-Deming saddle our exquisite contours, allowed us to avoid numerous crevasses while we effortlessly passed many groups. After a several hours of causal skinning we reached the saddle, took a break, and reviewed crampon and ice axe use. As we exited the lower angle slopes of the Coleman Glacier and entered the steeper frozen snow slopes of the Deming Glacier we developed great crampon foot work with ski poles in hand eventually trading those for ice axes for our final 1,700’ push up the Roman Wall. 

PictureJere and Carl Heading Up the Roman Wall
   ​Onto the wind buffed and iced ridge line above the crevasses of the Deming Glacier, across from the conga line of climbers on the Easton Glacier Route, under a sunny rainbow colored halo, we duck stepped then crossover stepped while gazing up at the Roman Wall. Near the top the angle eased and we made our last few steps onto the enormous summit ice cap. Finally on top we relaxed with lunch, conversation and accomplishment. After a short break we wandered over to the 10,781’ Grant Summit, soaked in the views of Shuksan, Takobia, and Tahoma then headed back towards the Roman Wall. At this point we said goodbye to Jack and Carl since they were descending back to the trailhead via the Deming and Coleman Glaciers. As for Daniel and I we would stay the night atop Komo Kulshan and descend the Park Glacier in the morning. 
   Soft swooshing grains of snow and crisp ice crystals pattered against the tent as they tumbled south across Komo's vast ice cap. The wall of snow on the windward side of the tent deflected prevailing winds creating fluted drifts and small piles under the vestibule. The immense brisk alpine darkness fell away to broken scattered islands of pulsing artificial light far below. Bellingham, Everett, Seattle, Vancouver indistinctly melt away into the lowlands as warm rosy and orange hues spread across the cool black,  blue, and violet pre dawn sky. A night spent high above the Pacific Coast overlooking the Puget Sound, Straight of Juan De Fuca, Straight of Georgia, the Salish sea gazing upon the Olympic Peninsula, Vancouver and the San Juan Islands felt like observing a newly discovered civilization while in orbit.   

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On the 9,000' Saddle
   First thing in the morning we ventured out to observe current conditions. I wandered over and peered down on the Park Headwall. It had been wind scoured down to hard melt freeze crust mixed with pockets of drift that hung over gaping bergschrunds and crevasses. Looking over at the original party's descent route, the Cockscomb, hanging snow fields fell off into giant open holes, a maze of snow bridges covertly could provide passage to those willing to hang it out there. That's when it became clear that the skiers right line on the Park Headwall entrance was dirty and the Cockscomb entrance was filthy. Safe passage on either route would have been at least contrived and at most dangerous, despairing, or deadly.  
    The forecast for our descent was a bit warmer than the day before. Since we anticipated snow conditions to soften our camp was packed, harnesses were racked, splitters assembled and we were strapped in ready to descend off the 10781’ summit  by 10 a.m. Embarking down the most reasonable entrance onto the Park, we found enough softened snow on the upper Boulder Glacier to slide a turn, to edge, to maintain control during our onsight of the Watson Traverse. Down the summit cone with ice axes in hand, following along the summit cliffs we slowly slid turns on sun kissed snow south east for 600' until a passage north would grant us access through crumbling volcanic scoria. Along the rock ridge separating the Boulder from the Park, across the first snow bridge, over a concealed crevasse at about 9,900’, the snow varied from sun softened to wind buffed dust to coarser hard packed melt freeze crust. Even though traversing further left would have linked in directly below the dirty right line on the Park Headwall we aligned above our next landmark simply dubbed "the bulge." This next section of ridge divided the glaciers and lead us down a moderate ramp for the next 700’. Next we continued on the south side margin avoiding a series of big holes. Then far above the Park Cliffs and lower ice falls we previously identified snow bridges at 9,200’ that would lead left and take us across the dished out center of the Park Glacier towards our next landmark the blue ice block. Traversing mid glacier, below the headwall, under hanging seracs, across ramps, bridges, and slopes we ended up slightly lower than anticipated. So we boot packed 25 yards above the blue ice block as we were soaked with an overwhelmed feeling of admittance into this colossal landscape.
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Daniel on the Park Glacier
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Making Turns on the Upper Park
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Jere on the Short Boot Pack of the Lower Park Glacier
   ​Once we reached the lower Park directly below the Cockscomb we cruised turns down 2,100’ of moderate slopes, weaving a path among frozen trap doors, on snow that was like sun softened butter, a popsicle left in the fridge, like an almost frozen beer slushy that’s just soft enough to slurp out of the can. Surfing down to a prominent black rock horn at 7,000’ we exited from the Park Glacier and continued our descent north east another 1,300’ below Portal South onto the Rainbow Glacier at 5,700’. A single complex descent included fall line turns on hard pack to corn snow, ice axe plunging traverses over snow bridges and crevasses, a short kickable boot pack next to the house sized blue ice block. Weaving, slashing, buttering, axe spike dragging turns on a never ending glacier took us down nearly 5,200’ from the Grant summit into the Portals. Congratulatory hoots and hollers exuded between sun drenched ear to ear grins. Feeling the beating afternoon heat we transitioned to split mode, and began our sweaty one hour ascent to the pass in between Portals West and East. Meandering along Ptarmigan Ridge we descended the Sholes Glacier in split mode, climbed 800’ up to point 6,332’ at the headwaters of Wells Creek where we had lunch and melted snow for water.
   An alternative in great conditions would be to stop where the Park, Rainbow and Mazama Glaciers intersect and climb over Portal South to Portal West then descend the Sholes glacier for a 1300’ run. This adds a fair amount of ascent but the reward is another great run.   
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Splitting Under the Portal East
   By this time the snow had softened to sloppy slurp slush on a firm frozen bed surface which made good turns but also focused and deliberate skinning. Another 1,300’ run down smooth corn, through a short rock chute, over roller slopes, under Lasiocarpa Ridge and the sentinel Coleman Pinnacle, took us into the Wells Creek drainage. The next couple of hours we were like bouncing human sing along balls while traversing in split mode below Ptarmigan Ridge, up to the Table Mountain Pass, under South Table, across Artist Point, over rolling humps of snow, next to the deeply buried summer road, back into the closed ski area, down old groomed trails, split skating with out skins, along flat trails, past families, hikers, snowshoers, finally we arrived at Heather Meadows. 
   A buzz of activity at the parking lot greeted us. Daniel and I traded our heightened mountain senses for relaxation accompanied by cold Washington ciders and beers. The Watson Traverse took us 2 moderate days covering approximately 17 miles with one of our runs descending nearly 5,200'. This is truly a classic repeatable ski traverse over a legendary Cascade Volcano in one of the best split boarding zones anywhere.

For more photos of the trip check out our Instagram Feeds 
@Guided_Exposure 
@DanielFrohman
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One year after the AMGA rock guide course

4/21/2016

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​   Snow is still piling up above treeline depositing the deepest snowpack of the season. We have become intimate with an entire winters worth of layering and welcome the commonly stable spring skiing conditions. Our legs are strong and our endurance is high from miles of track setting up thousands of feet through the thigh deep.
   AMGA advanced ski guide courses and exams are wrapping up winter programs while summer programs such as rock guide courses, advanced rock and guide exams start to swing. Many of us are making our annual migration north towards the arctic circle to chase deep cold snow at the same time a long cold wet winter drives others to escape to drier climates like the Colorado Plateau. In the coming weeks we will strengthen our fingers on sandstone varnish plates and granite chicken heads, pump our guns on run out pitches up fountain sandstone, and remind ourselves that 5.9 was a hard rating in the 60’s and sure feels hard this early in the spring. After the first day of rock work for the season I am reminded of the skills we as a result of the American Mountain Guide Association Rock Guide Course.
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West Ridge in Eldorado Canyon
   The American Mountain Guide Association rock guide course increases a guides confidence and abilities in multi pitch rock climbing terrain. A wide range of technical skills will align guides and instructors with preferred practices of the trade that will leave onlookers bewildered and in awe. Tacoma based guide Andrew Powell said, 

​“I impressed a group of Seattle Mountaineers on the top of Concord Tower on WA Pass when I converted a munter hitch into a clove hitch after belaying my client to the summit. I learned that skill in the RGC.”

​   Since the course last year I have progressed through other baseline guide track courses and along the way I gained professional and personal climbing experience. These experiences have developed a foundation in the fine art of mountain guiding. The AMGA instructor team members deliver their art in a professional structured manner that enhance professional guides. Often times we learn something that wasn’t in the course description or handbook. ​Bozeman and Jackson Hole based guide Cat Coe says the best thing she learned on course was, 

​“That you can make a living out of guiding! Inspiring to see instructors with different approaches make it”
   
   Year after year the world of american mountain guiding continues it's upward progression with a commitment to professionalism. Employers play an important role in this upward progression by encouraging guides to train and certify through the American Mountain Guide Association. For many, applying for and participating in a course for the first time can seem intimidating. 
​
When RGC participants were asked "Did this course help and would you recommend it to others?," the irrefutable response was “definitely.”
​  
​   Whether or not you believe in the AMGA or plan to certify as a rock guide, the rock guide course will develop technical, personal, or instructional skills. If nothing else you get to climb with exceptional people at some of the best climbing venues in the country. Who knows you may even get to ride in a new friends hot boxed Subaru on your way to a stare down with an overprotective turf defending goose. 
​
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The Sharkstooth in Rocky Mountain National Park
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American Mountain Guide Association Ski Guide Course Jackson Hole Wyoming

3/21/2016

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​   The Wind River Range was shrouded in clouds and the sun cast a rosy evening hue against the sky. Passing by Rock Springs, Pine Dale and Bondurant dusk drew darker and the road gradually became wet, drifted, then snow packed. I was greeted in Jackson Hole for the American Mountain Guide Association Ski Guide Course with the wrath of inversion and negative 25 degree temps but the cold quickly faded. After meeting Tom at the Stagecoach we drove up the winding road, skinned out the sunny south side of the parking lot and  shredded some of the great linkups that are possible through out the Teton Pass zone. The inversion kept the south aspect snow in great shape and after a few laps we discussed the next day objective with a couple cold ones at the Stagecoach.
​   The following morning started with an ambitious alpine start of 8 a.m. and before I knew it we were in Grand Teton National Park packed, skinned, and caffeinated, charging uphill across the frozen Bradley Lake under Tepee Pillar, into the meadow, below Nez Perce and the east and west hourglass, looking up at the east face of the Middle Teton, in the iconic Garnet Canyon. Our long haul among spectacular scenery was rewarded with wind blown recycled powder on a moderate line called the cave. In the high-handed winter alpine, among mountains that make legends or break wannabes, shredding down a cliff lined chute, traversing high across snow covered crumbling canyon walls, jibbing rock skipping fall lines, back to the toe of the canyon, slashing steep open powder cloaked cliffs dripping in ice we exited the mountains. Groups of shredders trickled, rolled, bounded, onto the frozen stage of Bradley Lake chatting about our lines, our stories, and shared our laughter, smiles, and excitement after a day of skiing.
Picture
Jere shredding Teton Pow
Picture
Tom near Bradley Lake
   A rest day and systems check followed before we went to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for our first day of the Ski Guide Course. On the first day after the group delivered introductions and received a briefing on the coming 12 days we enthusiastically loaded onto Big Red and shuttled up nearly 4200’ to the top of Rendevouz bowl to warm up for our movement skill evaluation. So we bombed down the mountain trying to keep up with Course Leader Rob Hess. Our next couple laps included bumped out bowl skiing through mountain top fog, ski school style groomed slide turns, and tight, steep, chute shredding all with a video recording of our every turn. We reconvened at the base area and reviewed the video of our runs, discussed coaching methods for our clients, and called it a day. ​
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Rob Hess explaining movement technique
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Rob in Four Pines
​   The following days we filled Big Red to access steep powder slopes, bowls, and chutes plummeting  4,200’ while learning the finer points of the invisible rope. It was easy to keep rewards high and white rooms freshly painted among the rock lined chutes, faces, and forests we guided. 
   To conclude our mechanized backcountry down guiding days we stayed inbounds and built snow anchors and managed lowers with Mike Poborsky. This was a great day since we tried a variety of lowering techniques using us snowboarders as guinea pigs. Since we are turned sideways the pull of the rope on the harness can be awkward, it torsionally rotates the riders at the tie in. So we rigged an equalized tether to the uphill side of the rider, then we practiced being lowered regular or switch in other words tip up hill or tip downhill. Even though we were lowering on a rutted and difficult slope ​the 3 splitters (Tom , Frank, and Jere) had the opportunity to discuss the pros and cons of each technique. While it's still debatable I believe an equalized tether with the splitboard tip uphill, switch lower, worked the best.  
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Mike demos "H" anchor
Picture
Getting lowered below the tram
​   Meandering through the moraine and snow covered willows, ascending through old growth forest among braided skin tracks, skinning through boot deep blower in alpine meadows, onto near tree line ridges looking up at the Grandest of Tetons and down to the elk refuge thousands of feet below we ascended to our first touring objective in Grand Teton National Park, namely 25 short. Mike Poborsky explained and demonstrated, then we practiced the finer points of track setting and turning techniques. A quick but thorough snowpack evaluation along the way led us to the top of this classic "low hanging fruit." Long, open, evergreen lined, powder filled slopes descends into the deciduous and bare treed meadows to the valley. At the bottom a little one foot skating with poles, through frozen wetlands led to split mode  skating back across the groomed skate ski track and the trailhead.
Picture
Forrest ripping 25 Short
   ​On our seventh day we headed back into the park and skied Albright Mountain, another Grand Teton National Park classic. This more committing objective gave everyone a chance to refine up and down guiding skills. This grand outing above timber line, plunged down through stiff wind slab and the summit chute, onto Albright's shoulders and slalom pine groves and meadows, we ripped fall lines that left us with huge smiles filled with light dry Teton blower.
   After recuperating with a day working on technical skills, including sled construction, lowers and load transfers we finished early to take care of any last minute details before the long awaited multi-day yurt based tour. The course itinerary and progression worked great as we transitioned from mechanized guiding, then touring, and eventually multi-day hut based access. The next day we met in Victor Idaho, drove up to the trailhead, and headed up to the Baldy Mountain Yurt.
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Baldy Mountain Yurt
   ​At this point in the course everyone has been applying new skills, developing old ones, and generally feeding off of each other and our instructors. After reaching the yurt we settled in, began working on beacon search skills and building snow shelters. This quickly led to evening when we found ourselves in the toasty wood stove warmed yurt, wearing comfy down booties, preparing fresh stir fry, while Ullr provided peppermint and cinnamon refills. Nearly a week into the course  good conversation and networking, satisfied appetites and thirst, were accompanied with a healthy dose of the winter pattern, El Gordo.
   The next morning Gordo and Ullr kept spirits high with powder stoke and delivered a fresh foot of snow. The two groups set off up the wandering ridge line, peering for positive visibility and condition assessments. After traveling through snow blowing meadows near tree line we descended back to the yurt, snacked, then headed off to some low angle hot lap glory. The remainder of the day consisted of storm snow analysis, collecting data, gaining feedback, and the occasional hoot and holler that echoed off trees as ear to ear grins blasted through repeated face shots.
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Pre-storm sun
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Morning meeting
​   Our last night at the yurt and a sense of conclusion set in as hot drinks and conversation complimented a hearty dinner.  Then finally it was our turn to dig, build and sleep in our snow shelter. Through trial and error Brendan and I  attempted to replicate Rob Hess's shelter. We constructed a large snow shelter with an all important wind blocking door that proved to be cozy. Morning greeted us with a warm hearty breakfast and loads of coffee and tea. We vacated the yurt then Mike thoroughly covered mechanical advantage raising systems. The time finally came for our final descent of the trip. Hauling overnight packs up through ridge line glades and meadows, we transition to dreamy powder fields and onto the meandering skin track, eventually we reached the weir and crossed the shallow stream back to the road. This long descent provided great snow, a bit of on sight route finding, and a variety of split board techniques to manage the variable terrain and slope angle. Once back on the snow covered and packed road we skinned and skated back to the cars where we unloaded packs, changed clothes, and headed to the nearest watering hole, to feed, refresh, and generally relax after 11 days of knowledge, experience, networking, and fun hog having good times. 
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Colin getting in on the hot lap glory
   ​Our last day was brief but perhaps the most influential. As part of being stewards of the national forest, national parks, and public lands, we had a Leave no Trace discussion. But this wasn’t a lesson on the 7 LNT guidelines, as guides we should already be implementing this with clients. Rob led the discussion on what this means in regards to the direction of the American Mountain Guides Association and the perception of the organization in the eyes of the public, the land managers, and the international community.
   As stewards it is our responsibility to demonstrate what sustainability, conservation, and land use is. It is up to us to exemplify this message to our clients, to other groups, and to land managers so that we express the absolute value of hiring an AMGA trained and certified mountain guide. Of course as AMGA trained guides and instructors we have technical skills and interpersonal skills, some better than others. But we also have a responsibility to positively influence the public about the impact and value of our actions while connecting with the landscape we travel through.

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The Grand Teton and Bradley Lake
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