Quick draws and extendable slings are critical pieces of equipment for traditional, alpine, and even sport climbing. They help to reduce rope drag by allowing the rope to move in a straight line. In this way a leader can easily move upward with out being pulled down. Perhaps more importantly a straight running rope better distributes the force of a lead fall by allowing the rope to absorb more force and thus reducing the impact on one or more pieces of protection. Another important contribution of a quick draw or extended runner is to prevent cams from walking into a crack and causing under or over camming. Even more nut placements will not be compromised when the leader climbs above the piece of protection. When guiding multiple clients in parallel rope technique an extendable runner makes it easier for the followers to unclip their rope from the protection. One example is with climbers of different heights. For shorter climbers an extended sling can be pulled closer so they can unclip their rope. When using caterpillar rope technique the second of three climbers can easily unclip their rope, while still being able to comfortably clip in the third climbers rope, often times with out pulling up slack.
Dynex slings keep the rope away from foot and hand holds An extendable sling can also provide easier and safer clipping while on lead. When a lead climber places protection at chest to head level a sling can reduce the amount of rope needed to clip. I have found added comfort in placing gear around shoulder level, extending a sling, then reaching down and clipping the carabiner into the rope. On the other hand reaching down to grab the rope, pulling up slack, then clipping the rope into the carabiner increases the amount of energy needed, reducing efficiency, while creating additional slack in the system. So using an extended sling while clipping has less rope available thus reducing the potential of a long leader fall. This combination of equipment and technique adds comfort and safety while reducing steps and creating efficiency.
Over the years I have used many different quickdraws and slings. In the past couple years I have been using Trango 60cm and 120cm Ultratape slings with Black Diamond Neutrino carabiners and Cypher quickdraws. This setup has proven to be light, durable, and affordable. But I was looking for something lighter with lower bulk. This lead me to search out a new sling and draw setup. Eventually I decided on the ultra lightweight and low bulk Black Diamond OZ quickdraws and carabiners paired with 60cm and 120cm Dynex runners.
Over the years I have used many different quickdraws and slings. In the past couple years I have been using Trango 60cm and 120cm Ultratape slings with Black Diamond Neutrino carabiners and Cypher quickdraws. This setup has proven to be light, durable, and affordable. But I was looking for something lighter with lower bulk. This lead me to search out a new sling and draw setup. Eventually I decided on the ultra lightweight and low bulk Black Diamond OZ quickdraws and carabiners paired with 60cm and 120cm Dynex runners.
A straight running rope through overhanging blocky terrain One of the first benefits of this kit is the hood wire on the key lock nose of the OZ carabiner. This unique feature offers lead climbers smooth rope, bolt and piton clipping with out snagging on the nose while at the same time the follower will benefit from the ease of unclipping from bolts, pitons, and ropes. The hood wire also reduces the chance of an open gate failure from debris or ice.
The next benefit on the OZ-Dynex extendable runner set up is the weight, or lack thereof. The location of the route will determine how many runners I rack. But in areas with longer pitches such as Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park I may climb with six 60cm and two 120cm extendables. Where as if I’m climbing shorter and often wandering and traversing pitches of Eldorado Canyon in Boulder I’ll rack up to ten 60cm and two 120cm runners. In any case if I were to rack my ten single length and two double length Dynex runners with two OZ carabiners each I carry a total weight of 33.5 ounces or about 2 pounds.
In addition to this I could carry six OZ quickdraws. These are great for crack climbs where I’ll use more cam then nut placements and the route has a plumb line compared to a meandering one. These draws are easy to clip onto the cam sling while the rubber straight jacket on the rope end carabiner allow for controlled one hand, fingers on the outside or single finger on the inside rope clipping. All six of these draws weigh in at 13.2 ounces or about 0.8 pounds.
In comparison my old quickdraw and extendable sling kit weighed in at nearly 4 pounds but when I built this new kit it lost nearly 24 ounces or about a pound and a half. So why does a pound and a half matter? First of all on alpine routes with long approaches such as the Backbone on Dragontail in the Enchantments or Ellingwood Ledges on Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Cristo this pound and half will make a difference on single day car to car assaults. Additonally on these long days this weight savings can be transmitted to water or food weight, extra thermal layers, a bivy sack or that little bottle of celebratory libation. What’s more is the possibility to shave another ¾ of a pound by using Dynex runners with only one OZ carabiner! This would drop the total quickdraw extendable runner kit to a scant 1.7 pounds! Now imagine how hard you could climb with that weight savings.
Lastly and this came as quite a surprise is the reduction of clutter on my gear loops and gear slings. The Dynex at 10mm is 2mm narrower that the Ultratape at 12mm. In addition to this the dynex runners are great for equalizing anchor points.
The next benefit on the OZ-Dynex extendable runner set up is the weight, or lack thereof. The location of the route will determine how many runners I rack. But in areas with longer pitches such as Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park I may climb with six 60cm and two 120cm extendables. Where as if I’m climbing shorter and often wandering and traversing pitches of Eldorado Canyon in Boulder I’ll rack up to ten 60cm and two 120cm runners. In any case if I were to rack my ten single length and two double length Dynex runners with two OZ carabiners each I carry a total weight of 33.5 ounces or about 2 pounds.
In addition to this I could carry six OZ quickdraws. These are great for crack climbs where I’ll use more cam then nut placements and the route has a plumb line compared to a meandering one. These draws are easy to clip onto the cam sling while the rubber straight jacket on the rope end carabiner allow for controlled one hand, fingers on the outside or single finger on the inside rope clipping. All six of these draws weigh in at 13.2 ounces or about 0.8 pounds.
In comparison my old quickdraw and extendable sling kit weighed in at nearly 4 pounds but when I built this new kit it lost nearly 24 ounces or about a pound and a half. So why does a pound and a half matter? First of all on alpine routes with long approaches such as the Backbone on Dragontail in the Enchantments or Ellingwood Ledges on Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Cristo this pound and half will make a difference on single day car to car assaults. Additonally on these long days this weight savings can be transmitted to water or food weight, extra thermal layers, a bivy sack or that little bottle of celebratory libation. What’s more is the possibility to shave another ¾ of a pound by using Dynex runners with only one OZ carabiner! This would drop the total quickdraw extendable runner kit to a scant 1.7 pounds! Now imagine how hard you could climb with that weight savings.
Lastly and this came as quite a surprise is the reduction of clutter on my gear loops and gear slings. The Dynex at 10mm is 2mm narrower that the Ultratape at 12mm. In addition to this the dynex runners are great for equalizing anchor points.
60cm and 120cm Dynex Slings, Guide ATC and Rock Lock Carabiners With all of these benefits it goes with out saying there are some drawbacks. To obtain low weight and low bulk the equipment is smaller. While my average size hands easily handle and clip the OZ carabiners with a 9.2-9.8mm rope there will be those with larger hands and larger diameter ropes that have a difficult time with these carabiners. I have also found the hood wire is to large to clip certain piton eyes. While most of the time this may not be a big deal blowing an onsight at your limit because you couldn't clip a piton protected crux would be disappointing. Another drawback is the lower melting point of dynex slings. When used as an extendable sling this doesn’t create much of a problem, but this limits it’s ability to be used as a friction hitch such as a third hand back up, a progress capture, or tractor, in mechanical advantage or belay escape situations. Of course these runners can be used in these applications but it seems as though their strength will be reduced and perhaps should no longer be used as a runner on lead climbs.
So if weight and bulk are important considerations then this extendable runner set up is top notch. Easy rope clipping on bolts and most pitons is a benefit for both the leader and follower. Add in the fact that compared to nylon, Dynex absorbs less water and is less stiff when frozen, Dynex excels in alpine conditions when temps drop below freezing. In my opinion and from my experience the reduced melting point and smaller carabiner size are outweighed by more racking space on gear loops, reduced drag from weight and the ability to send harder for longer from the crag to the alpine.
So if weight and bulk are important considerations then this extendable runner set up is top notch. Easy rope clipping on bolts and most pitons is a benefit for both the leader and follower. Add in the fact that compared to nylon, Dynex absorbs less water and is less stiff when frozen, Dynex excels in alpine conditions when temps drop below freezing. In my opinion and from my experience the reduced melting point and smaller carabiner size are outweighed by more racking space on gear loops, reduced drag from weight and the ability to send harder for longer from the crag to the alpine.
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